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Choosing Yarns for Charity Knitting - Softness

POSTED: October 20, 2010 by mysisterknits

Well, the chemo cap contest with Your Daily Fiber and Lambspun is nearly up. We want to thank each of you who have donated handmade hats for Hope Lives! and Poudre Valley Hospital. The cold weather is only just starting and it is the height of charity knitting season, whether for those suffering from cancer or those who are in need for warmth through this tough economy. There are many properties of yarn to consider when choosing a yarn for your charity knitting. Below is the article I wrote for the October Stitches newsletter on the softness of yarns, an especially important yarn property when knitting for cancer patients.

Choosing yarns for charity knitting can be a challenge., especially for chemo caps that get worn by extra sensitive heads. There are many characteristics of yarn that make up the perceived softness or itchiness of yarn. Fiber type, spinning method and processing all play a role.

Fiber Types
Not all yarn fibers are created equal. Animal fibers like wool, alpaca, llama and such are often softer than plant fibers like cotton, hemp and linen. Much like human hair, animal fibers come in a variety of textures and lengths. Finer textured fibers are going to feel the softest and thus are in most demand. Manufacturers charge more for them which means the labels of yarns using finer fibers list specific types to justify their pricing. Yarns just labeled as wool are likely not as soft as those labeled with merino, alpaca, kid mohair, cashmere and so on.

Synthetic fibers are made in many textures but a touch test is often required to judge their softness. Though some terms like microfiber are used to indicate finer fibers. Most are made with petrochemicals and some cancer patients wish to reduce their exposure to such products.

Clockwise from upper left: Rowan Lima, Frog Tree Worsted Alpaca Singles, The Fibre Company Road to China, Cascade Venezia Worsted, Blue Sky Alpaca Alpaca Silk and Frog Tree Alpaca Sport Weight Plied. Click on yarn name to be taken to Ravelry's suggested hat patterns for that yarn.

Spinning Methods
There are two ways to spin fiber -- worsted and woolen. The worsted method, which is not related to the yarn weight classification of the same name, aligns all the fibers in the same direction before spinning. This keeps all the fiber ends nice and tidily locked into place by the spin and ply of the yarn. It produces a relatively dense, smooth yarn that often appears to have a slight sheen to it. If the yarn is plied the plies are often quite distinct as well. This method of yarn making is often the least itchy.

Woolen spun yarns do not align the fibers. This produces a yarn that is very lofty and airy and thus more insulating. The ends are not all neatly tucked in which results in an itchier finish. The loose ends can also contribute to more pilling on items that are exposed to much friction. Woolen yarns often appear a bit more rustic with a matte finish to them, and are usually a bit livelier and elastic.

Processing
Some animal fibers, including sheep breeds, are from animals that have a soft layer but then have a coarser outer layer often called guard hairs. If not mostly removed before spinning, these otherwise soft fibers may be scratchy and irritating. Closely examine those types of yarn to see how many guard hairs made it into the final yarn as it is impossible to remove it all. Fibers that may contain guard hair include cashemere, camel, llama, yak, opossum and qiviut.

Other possible irritants in yarn include how well the fiber was scoured and washed to remove dust, vegetable matter and lanolin. Some fiber is prepped for spinning by adding a light oil to help it flow through the machinery more smoothly and is not always removed. If the yarn is dyed, any unabsorbed dye particles that were not fully rinsed could cause irritation as could any fragrance in cleaning agents used. For these reasons it is recommended that you always wash charity items in unscented wool wash such as SOAK or Eucalan and keep washed items away from smoke or pets.

Clockwise from upper left: Cascade 220 Superwash, Sublime Extra Fine Merino DK, Spud & Chloe’s Sweater, Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Bulky, and Spud & Chloe’s Outer. Click on yarn name to be taken to Ravelry's suggested hat patterns for that yarn.

Softness of a yarn is subjective and it is not possible to just hand out a list and say these yarns will work for everyone. For that reason it is best to provide a variety of items to choose from. To test the itch factor of a yarn you can rub it lightly against your neck or along the inside of your arm. These areas are more sensitive and should give you a fairly accurate assessment.

To learn more about fibers types and choosing yarns check out Clara Parkes’ The Knitter’s Book of Yarn and The Knitter’s Book of Wool.

Overview of Circular Cast-Ons

POSTED: June 19, 2010 by mysisterknits

Most of us first learn to knit flat first, as we advance to increasingly complex projects it is likely to eventually need to cast-on a relatively small number of stitches that occur at the center of a project. Such projects may include socks from the toe-up, or hats or mittens from the top down or shawls.

Cast your mind back to when you first learned to cast-on. Remember how it took a few tries to get an even edge and how those first few rows of knitting were difficult because of the lack of finished fabric hanging from the needle? The same holds true when casting on in the center. Practice is required and knitting the first several rounds is awkward with all the extra needle hanging around, even for those experienced in these techniques. Keep this in mind and don't get too frustrated the first few times you try any of these methods. Get up, take a deep breath and maybe go for a walk if you find yourself getting too stressed.

Two Needle Methods

There are three different methods of casting on central stitches onto two needles - the Turkish or Middle Eastern Cast-on, the Figure-8 Cast-on and Judy’s Magic Cast-on. All three of these cast-ons can be made even easier by using circular needles as you can rest the stitches on the cable portion of one needle while you work the stitches on the other one. This gives you a bit more room for working the stitches and allows the unused needle to lay out of the way. If you are brand new to these methods try using circular needles made of two different materials so it is easier to figure out which needle tips belong to the same circular.

The methods of these cast-ons are very similar and the results nearly identical. They are particularly well suited for toes, mitten tips and bottoms of bags. They are not as neat looking for flat items as the other methods as they start from a central row of stitches rather than a circle. Try each one to see which works best for you.

Two Needle Tutorials and Videos:

• FluffyKnitterDeb’s Turkish Cast-On
• Knitting Daily’s Middle Eastern Cast-On
• cheekyattitude’s YouTube Video of Turkish Cast-On
• Fiberfool’s Tutorial with Video of the Figure-8 Cast-On
• Hello Yarn’s Figure-8 Cast-On on DPNs
• Judy’s Magic Cast-On from Judy Herself & a follow-up
• Cat Bordhi’s Video of Judy’s Magic Cast-On

Closed Circle Methods

For items that lie flat such as shawls, doilies, washcloths etc. cast-ons that start with a circle of stitches rather than a row of stitches will give your items a more finished look. Probably the best-known of these cast-ons today is the Emily Ocker cast-on (occasionally referred to as the pinhole cast-on) where you form a loop of yarn and then single crochet over this loop the number of stitches required. After knitting a few rounds the tail can then be pulled to tighten and neaten the circle. A similar method skips the crochet hook and involves working knit stitches and yarn overs around a similar loop. This method is sometimes known as the Disappearing Loop cast-on or lighter circular cast-on.

The end result of these methods are very similar. Some feel the disappearing loop method is superior because the crochet of Emily Ocker’s cast-on is a bit bulkier and longer than a knit round. But choose the method that you find most comfortable. Whichever you choose, work the first round or two as though you were working an i-cord before dividing onto multiple needles and it will be a bit easier to keep the needles under control.

Another way to achieve a similar result is to cast-on the required number of stitches with scrap yarn of comparable weight and work an inch of so of i-cord, then switch to your project yarn and begin the pattern as instructed. When the project is done you unravel the scrap yarn and run the tail of the working yarn through the live stitches and cinch closed just like you would finish a normal bottom-up hat.

Closed Circle Tutorials and Videos:

• Bagatell’s Emily Ocker Tutorial
• kelleypetkun’s YouTube Video
• djinnj’s Lighter Circular Cast-on Two Ways YouTube Video
• TECHKnitting’s Disappearing Loop Tutorial

Which of these methods do you usually use? Did I miss one of your favorites?

Choosing Needle Material: Bamboo

POSTED: February 25, 2010 by mysisterknits

Knitting needles made of bamboo share many properties with the wooden needles. Bamboo needles are lighter than the same size wooden needles and have a bit more flexibility making them less likely to break. They can develop permanent curvatures, but that often does not affect their usability. Like wood, bamboo has some friction, though some companies offer ultra-polished versions that are a bit slicker than wooden needles. Some bamboo needle manufacturers also claim they get smoother and slicker with use. In that case they may be the optimum needle to grow with your knitting skills - as you become a faster and more proficient knitter the needles get faster. Due to the growth rate and methods of harvesting, bamboo is considered a renewable resource making bamboo needles the most environmental choice. The renewability also makes it readily available and affordable for needle companies meaning you have the biggest selection of brands to choose from which keeps costs down. Clover Takumi is likely the most recognizable supplier of bamboo needles. They have two lines, the plain, less expensive line and the Takumi Velvet which runs about 40% more but boasts a higher polish finish and no use of petrochemicals in production. In both lines you can get 9 and 14 inch single point needles, 5 or 7 inch dpns and 16, 24, and 29" circulars. In the plain Takumi line you can also get 9, 36 and 48 inch circulars as well as crochet hooks. Other bamboo needle brands include HiyaHiya, Crystal Palace and KA. HiyaHiya offers only circs and dpns. Their dpns come in 5, 6 and 8 inch lengths and their circulars are available in 9-60 inch lengths. Both types come in sizes US0-15. Crystal Palace offers two lengths of dpns and of single point needles as well as 16, 26 and 35 inch length circular needles with a few sizes also available in 55 inch. They offer sizes US0-19 in single point and circs and a subset of those sizes depending upon the length of the dpn. KA also offers two lengths of single point needles. Their double point needles come in 4, 6 and 8 inch lengths and their circulars are available in 9-36 inches and have a special rotary join from the tip to the cord which prevents twisting. Depending upon the needle type and length they have sizes from US0-19. All three of these companies also offer interchangable circular needle sets where the tips can be attached to varying length cords. If you are you looking for an economical choice or environmentally friendlier needle option than bamboo is likely your needle material of choice. All bamboo needles have slightly different attributes depending upon the brand - smoother finish, pointier tips or more blunt tips, and different types of joins on the circular needles. The best way to choose bamboo needles is to give them a try and find which combination of features most suits you and best fits your budget. [polldaddy poll=2757264]

Choosing Needle Material: Wood

POSTED: February 23, 2010 by mysisterknits

Deciding where to spend our money on needles could be pretty easy if all we needed to decide was whether we would use single pointed, doubled pointed or circular needles most but that is not the only choice we need to make. Each of those three types of needles are also available in a myriad of materials from plated aluminum to an engineered milk protein polymer that resembles plastic called casein. Just as for choosing the type of knitting needles to purchase you can make educated decisions when making your purchases based on the types of yarn you prefer to knit with. We'll be taking a look at the four most commonly available materials - wood, bamboo, plastic and metal.

In the image above we have a sampling of dpns in (from left to right) metal, bamboo, plastic and wood (ebony). Today we'll take a look at wood.

Wood
Wood is a common material used to make knitting needles at a variety of price points depending upon the type of wood used. Unidentified woods or birch are generally the least expensive with rosewood and ebony topping the list. There are many advantages to wooden knitting needles, including a warmer and more organic feel and lighter weight. Some with arthritis or other hand or wrist issues prefer wooden needles because of these traits.

One big advantage of wood needles is that you can do some maintenance to extend their life. Wood can be lightly sanded with vary fine grade sandpaper or filed with an emery board if snags develope. You can even re-wax them if the finish wears over time with bees wax and some good hard buffing.

Wooden needles do have more friction than some other material options which can be helpful when new to knitting, working with especially slippery fibers like silk, rayon and other engineered fibers or for loose knitters. Tighter or faster knitters may find wood slows them down. Wood is also prone to breaking, especially the smaller needle sizes. Broken wooden dpns can be reused as make-shift cable needles so don’t throw them out!

Two of the most widely distributed wooden needle brands are Brittany and Lantern Moon. Brittany primarily uses birch for their needles so is often the economical choice, though they only make dpns and straight needles. For basic wooden circular needles try Addi Naturas.

Lantern Moon is a fair trade company that buys their handcrafted supplies from nations around the world with Vietnam being one of their major sources. They offer all three needles types in a variety of woods - rosewood, ebony, blondwood, and coconut palm wood. They offer single point straight needles in 10, 12 and 14" lengths. Sox Stix are their dpns in 5 or 6" lengths and come in sizes US0-5. Their 7" length dpns are available from US0-17. Destiny Circular Needles are their circs and offered in sizes US3-17 in 16, 16, 32 and 40" lengths. They also offer crochet hooks in ebony and rosewood. The fair trade aspects and different wood options do carry a slightly higher price tag, but many find it a wonderful way to treat themselves while also helping craftpersons make a livable wage.

Another source of blondwood and rosewood needles of all types is Colonial Needle. They offer circulars in US3-15 in lengths of 16, 24, and 32", dpns in 5.5" and 8" lengths for US0-15 sizes.

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Knitting Needle Types - Circular

POSTED: February 17, 2010 by mysisterknits

We have all done it. Stood and looked at a wall of needles, overwhelmed by all the options. The first step in choosing what needles to purchase (besides consulting your next pattern) is to understand the different types of needles and their uses. Already we have talked about single pointed and double pointed needles. Lastly, we'll discuss circular needles.

Circular Needles

Circular needles are two rigid needle points joined together by a flexible cable of varying lengths. The packages they come are labeled not only with the needle size, but also the length from needle tip to tip. Circular needles are quite versatile. Despite the name, they are not only used for circular knitting such as seamless sweaters, hats and cowls, but can be used to knit flat items such as afghans and scarves and and seamed items. Circular needles come a wide array of lengths from 8-60 inches. The needles 20 inches long and less have shorter rigid sections to be flexible enough to form a circle and some find this can cause hand cramps. Needles longer than 20 inches generally have a rigid section of 5-6 inches which many find more comfortable to work with.

When choosing the length of circular needle to purchase keep in mind that it should be smaller than the circumference of the knitting when knitting in the round. Circular needles can comfortably hold up to 40% more knitting circumference than their total length in the shorter sizes and as much as 50-60% more circumference than the total length in the longer sizes. Generally a slightly crowded circular needle can be knit faster than one that is a near match in length to the circumference being knit. Some projects may require the use of several different lengths at various points in the knitting process. When knitting flat on a circular needle the length is not important as long as it can accommodate the full width of the project.

There are also two methods of knitting smaller circumferences on circular needles instead of dpns. For the two circular method one half of the total circumference is knit as though flat on each of two circular needles. If knitting only one item at a time using this method one can use needles as short as 16 inches though many prefer 24 inches. If you are new to the two circular method using two different lengths and/or two different needle materials can make it easier. You may need a slightly longer length if you are working two items at a time such as two socks or two sleeves.

The second method is called magic loop and involves pulling excess cable out at the half way point in the circumference and working one half of the circumference at a time. For the magic loop method the 40 inch length is generally recommended, though some may use a 36 inch. As with the two circular method you may wish for a longer length if you are working two items at a time.

Summary of Lengths

• 8-12" are short lengths sometimes used for sleeves, mittens and socks, more options are available in these lengths now, the needle sections are quite short and some find using them can cause hand cramping, others love them.
• 16-20" are often used for the body and brims of hats or the bodies of baby and children's sweaters, for many companies these lengths have shorter needle sections than their longer counterparts and some find the short length less comfortable. These lengths can be used for knitting socks, mittens and legwarmers when using the two circulars method if you are knitting them one at a time, though most prefer 24".
• 24-30" a common size used for child and average women's sweater bodies as well as baby and lap blankets, for most companies these sizes (and up) have a bit longer needle portion that many find more comfortable, the 24" length is often preferred for knitting in the round on two circular needles and is required if knitting smaller circumference items two at a time such as socks.
• 32-36" a common size used for many adult sweaters as well as shawls and some baby and lap blankets, the 36" length is considered the shortest possible length to use for the magic loop method of knitting in the round, a 32 or 36" is a good length for knitting slightly larger items two at a time with two circulars such as sweater sleeve.
• 40-46" this size is the preferred size for magic loop knitting, it is also a good length for lots of afghans or plus-sized sweaters with body circumferences of 48" and up
• 60" is most often used for large projects such as blankets or shawls that are knit in the round and thus have a large outside circumference.

As you can see, each type of knitting needle has its purpose. Some types are a bit more versatile than others, but ultimately the best needle type for you is the one you most enjoy working with for the types of projects you like to knit. Once you have the needle type narrowed down you still need to decide upon the needle material. Come back for a discussion on needle materials soon.

Knitting Needle Types - Double Pointed

POSTED: February 15, 2010 by mysisterknits

In sorting through what knitting needles to add to your collection it is important to understand the type of knitting needles that are available as well as their uses and limitations. Then you can apply that knowledge to the types of projects you most enjoy knitting. Already we have discussed single pointed needles, often the first type of needle people are exposed to. Today I'd like to talk a bit about double pointed needles.

Double Pointed Needles

Double pointed needles, often abbreviated as dpns, are frequently used in sets of 4 or 5 to knit small circumference things in the round such as socks, mittens, sweater sleeves and the crowns of hats. They are called double pointed because both ends have pointed tips so you can knit onto or off of either end.

Available in varied lengths from 4-8 inches, 6 or 7 inch dpns are the most commonly available and versatile. To avoid dropping stitches you need a length that exceeds the width of the project that needs to be on a given needle. For example, if you are knitting a 12 inch circumference straight sleeve on 5 dpns (4 holding the sts and one actively knitting) you would need needles that are 12/4=3" plus an extra 1" at each end to ensure no stitches are lost when the project is resting (experienced dpn knitters may require less) you would need dpns of at least 3"+2"=5". If you work with all 5 in a set you can use a shorter dpn than if you work with only 4 (in the example above you'd need 6" long dpns when working with 4). The shortest lengths are best for fingers and thumbs of gloves or baby socks and booties. The longer ones are needed for larger circumferences like hats and upper sleeves.

Dpns can be turned into shorter single pointed needles, great for knitting skinny scarves, if you place a point protector on one end of 2 of the needles. Therefore, if you knit mostly smaller items in the round and occasionally work flat items that are relatively narrow you may get more use out of dpns than single pointed needles. Like single pointed needles you can fashion your own from dowels if desired. When knitting in the round some find dpns uncomfortable to work with due to all those points. Ladders of looser stitches can sometimes form at the join between needles. It can also be easy to twist your cast-on stitches when first joining for knitting in the round.

With a little practice double pointed needles can be great to work with. As we'll cover next, there are ways to knit smaller circumferences with circular needles if all those points are intimidating.

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Knitting Needle Types - Single Pointed

POSTED: February 12, 2010 by mysisterknits

We live in a fortunate time as knitters. It takes little effort to obtain knitting needles of various forms and made from a plethora of materials. This blessing can also be a curse, causing quandaries on which needles to add to your growing collection. The types of projects you like to knit and your preferred yarn types can be used as a guide in your decision making.

The logical first step in choosing needles is to decide what needle type you need -- single pointed, double pointed or circular? If you are a casual or beginning knitter that question might not be easy to answer. Today we'll talk a bit about single and double pointed needles and when they are typically used.

Single Point Needles

The odds are good that when you first learned to knit you were taught on a pair of single pointed knitting needles. They are called single pointed because they are made of two separate rigid lengths that have a tapered point on one end and stop on the other end. You can only knit to and from the tapered pointed ends. Because stitches can only be worked from one end of the needle they can only be used for items that are knit flat such as scarves, small baby blankets or items that are seamed.

Commercially made single pointed needles come in lengths from 8 to 14 inches. Single pointed needles can comfortably hold fabric about 60% wider than the length of the needle, or more if using sport weight or lighter yarn. The entire width of the project needs to fit on one needle without loosing stitches when setting the project aside as stopping mid row can deform stitches and make it easy to mess up stitch patterns. For this reason, single point needles are not a good choice for large items like afghans.

Like anything, single point needles have pros and cons. Single pointed needles are the easiest knitting needle type to locate, even in remote areas. They are simple enough that one can make them at home relatively easily by starting with dowels from the hardware store if desired or necessary. For knitters who like to rest a needle against their body while knitting single pointed needles are the only option. When knitting with single pointed needles the knit fabric hangs from the needles without support which can strain the hand and wrist. The longer the needle the more strain it can cause, thus it is best to choose the shortest length that will comfortably accommodate the greatest width of your project.

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TUTORIAL: Right Twisting Cable Without a Cable Needle

POSTED: January 10, 2010 by mysisterknits

Yesterday I shared the way I like to cable without a cable needle, but I only showed you how I do it for left twisting 4-stitch cables. Today I'll show you how I do it for right twisting 4-stitch cables or cable 2 right (or back).

Step 1: Take the right needle tip in front of the left needle and place it through the third and fourth stitches on the left needle as if to purl.

Step 2: With your left index finger apply some pressure to the base of the 1st and 2nd sts and remove all four stitches from the left needle.

Step 3: Slip the left needle through the two loose stitches from left to right so they are mounted normally on the needle.

Step 4: Pass the first two stitches now on the right needle back to the left needle. It looks kind of disorganized and the stitches may be somewhat distorted. They may also seem quite tight. This is normal.

Step 5: Knit the four newly reordered stitches and the cable is complete.

You should be able to see the direction the stitches are twisted before you even knit them. It is good practice to take a look at this stage to make sure you did cross them in the proper direction before you knit them. It is easiest to fix the cable before it is knit.

TUTORIAL: Left Twisting Cable Without a Cable Needle

POSTED: January 9, 2010 by mysisterknits

I always tell my students who are new to cabling that it is nothing more than an organized way to knit stitches out of order. Most commonly one uses a cable needle to aid you in working the stitches in a different order, but anyone who has done long term cabling projects knows those pesky cable needles like to run away and hide! Even if you do not wish to embark upon a full project dedicated to cabling without a cable needle, knowing how can get you out of a bind if you happen to loose a cable needle while out and about. Today I'll share how I like to cable without a cable needle to make a basic 4-stitch left twisting cable sometimes called "Cable 2 Front (C2F)."

Step 1: Take your right needle tip and bring it behind the left needle and pass it into the third and fourth stitch on the left needle as if to purl.

Step 2: Take your right thumb and place pressure on the first two stitches on the left needle and kind of pinch them to keep them from dropping. Then slip all four stitches from the left needle.

Step 3: Insert the left needle tip through the 2 loose stitches you are pinching with your right thumb. The tip should enter them from left to right so they are mounted normally onto the left needle.

Step 4: Slip the 2 stitches on the right needle back to the left needle. It looks kind of disorganized and the stitches may be somewhat distorted. They may also seem quite tight. This is normal.

Step 5: Now knit the newly reordered stitches normally. You should be able to see that two stitches cross to the left in front of two stitches. This forms the left twisting cable.

Come back soon for Right Twisting Cables Without a Cable Needle!